Ask the Vet: Collapsing Trachea

By Dr. Jean Hofve

Question: What product would you recommend for my small dog with a collapsed trachea?

Answer: The trachea, or windpipe, carries air from the outside to the lungs. In some toy-breed dogs (especially Poodles, Pomeranians, Yorkies, and Chihuahuas), a hereditary structural defect can allow the trachea to collapse during panting or rapid breathing. The collapse may be on either end of the trachea, but is most common right where the trachea enters the chest. The first symptom is typically a honking cough caused by restricted air flow, increased mucus, and inflammation in the trachea. At its most extreme, collapsing trachea makes breathing very difficult, resulting in severe distress and even fainting from lack of oxygen.  Left untreated, the problem will only get worse.

Collapsing trachea doesn’t usually become a problem until the dog reaches middle age. However, even in dogs with this defect, symptoms may not be seen until another problem comes along, such as obesity, exposure to smoke (i.e., cigarette smoke) or dust, respiratory infections, or heart enlargement.  Obviously, dealing with any such issues must be included in any treatment program.

Excess weight is the most common complicating condition in these dogs.  Changing to a canned food diet or raw food diet is an excellent way to get the fat off while maintaining lean muscle mass. Only Natural carries a large selection of natural canned dog foods and raw foods.

Be very cautious about exercise, since you want to avoid causing the dog to pant, which can set off a coughing episode. While it is important to give your dog adequate exercise in the form of calm walks, you definitely don’t want any excitement or strenuous activity. Heat stress, dusty dog parks, and similar environmental factors should also be avoided.

Of course, a dog with any tracheal or coughing problem should never wear a regular dog collar, bandana, chain, or any other restraint around the neck. Use a head-collar or harness instead of a standard collar to avoid putting pressure on the trachea.

Managing inflammation is the cornerstone of treatment. In conventional medicine, steroids are a common choice, but long-term use can make the problem worse. Adding antioxidants and/or omega-3 fatty acids to the diet is a safe and natural way to reduce inflammation.

Stress, anxiety, and fear are the worst enemies of a dog with a collapsing trachea. They can trigger and exacerbate the problem.

Flower essences and homeopathy can reduce acute anxiety during an episode; and they (as well as herbs and other calming products) can help manage the everyday stresses a dog may face in our modern world.

Because many dogs with collapsing trachea develop liver disease over time due to poor oxygenation, supporting the liver is important. Products such as Super Milk Thistle X and Vetri-Science Gluta-DMG can be very beneficial for these dogs.

Unless you have a holistic veterinarian, if you confess to your vet that you’re feeding a non-mainstream brand of pet food, raw meat, or (heaven forbid!) a homemade diet, you’ll probably see a look of consternation come over her face; and maybe even some subtle teeth clenching and whitening of the knuckles! So what’s their problem?? Most veterinarians are poorly educated about pet nutrition in the first place, and they hate it when their clients make forays into unknown country–especially if the trek involves the Internet!

Weird Brands

Most veterinarians are familiar with (and sell) just a few brands—the big four that market heavily to veterinarians: Science Diet, Iams, Purina, and Walthams. These companies are all owned by vast multinational corporations whose primary products are not pet food, but who have found that pet food is a very lucrative line. Science Diet is owned by Colgate Palmolive; Iams (and Eukanuba) by Procter & Gamble; Purina by Nestlé’s; and Walthams (including Royal Canin and IVD) by the Mars Company. These companies all spend millions of dollars to ingratiate themselves with veterinarians, often starting with veterinary students. They work hard to position themselves as the only manufacturers that are “trusted” and whose food is “scientifically researched.”

Therefore, many veterinarians look askance at what we know are far superior brands of food: Avo, California Natural, Canidae/Felidae, Innova, Merrick, Nature’s Variety/Prairie, Timberwolf, Wellness, Wysong, Ziwi Peak, and many more! In fact, here at Only Natural, we carry 41 brands of pet food—none of which you’ll see in most veterinary clinics. How do we know they’re superior? You probably already know the drill: no animal by-products, no chemical preservatives, no corn or other cheap meat substitutes, and excellent quality of ingredients. In fact, the only corn you’ll find at Only Natural Pet Store is in kitty litter! So don’t worry if your vet gives you the eye when you tell her what you’re feeding your dog or cat. Despite what the veterinary nutritionists claim, quality ingredients DO matter. You’re giving your pet the gift of health and long life when you stay away from the brands that spend more money on advertising than on making decent food!

Contamination

Oh, dear…now you’ve got to tell your vet you add raw meat to your pet’s food. Aided by a few poorly-conceived and abysmally-run “experiments” and articles that have been published in veterinary journals, your vet will probably start listing the dozens of kinds of bacteria, viruses and parasites that could be present in raw meat. One such article listed more than 50 pathological organisms—everything that had ever been found in raw meat anywhere on the planet, including rabies! The list included all the nasties that were present in the meat fed to racing greyhounds—which is condemned slaughterhouse waste that would never show up in the grocery store. It’s true that bacteria such as Salmonella, Listeria, and Campylobacter are even common in human-grade meat in the grocer’s cases. However, while we definitely need to follow ordinary safe storage and handling procedures with any raw meat, our dogs and cats are quite resistant to these bacteria due to their extreme stomach acidity and relatively short digestive tracts. (However, if your pet is immune-compromised with an autoimmune disease or suppressive drugs, check with your vet before feeding raw meat.)

If you’re buying a commercially made raw diet for your pets, you’ve got even less to worry about, because reputable makers follow strict quality control guidelines to make sure their foods are safe for your pet.

Diet Drift

When feeding a homemade diet, there’s a strong tendency for people to “drift” away from an original balanced recipe. There are many reasons for this. Maybe the cat likes lamb better than chicken—so they end up feeding only lamb; unaware that lamb is very low in taurine and can’t adequately support the cat’s heart and eyes.

Or maybe they run out of bone meal or other supplement, and forget to buy more at the store, and pretty soon the animal has been without it for weeks…or months… or years—with dire but predictable health consequences.

Here are a few comments from the Internet to illustrate the well-meaning but dangerous chances people take with homemade pet food:

“…I figured the dogs didn’t need any extra calcium so instead of using bone meal I used flaxseed meal instead.”

“I didn’t give [my dog] all the exact quantities.…”

“I fed recipes from Dr. X for ten years with great success. I still use them, with slight adaptations, for part of my cats’ diet, and base some of my dogs’ diet on them also…”

“A second recipe, originally published by Pet Food Company X…but somewhat modified by me…”

The vast majority of recipes on the internet and even in most books are not “complete and balanced.” Very few have ever been tested. It’s easy to collect or create a bunch of yummy recipes that dogs love, without giving a single thought to the nutrients that dogs need—and even easier to self-publish a book and sell it on a website or two. Here are a couple of  examples:

“…you can always modify the recipe to suit your needs.”

“…all that is required is a simple mix of meat, vegetables and starches.”

Fortunately, it’s easier now than ever to create a great homemade diet that won’t cause serious nutritional imbalances and deficiencies. You can take that basic recipe or even just a pound of ground round, and make it a complete and balanced diet with pre-mixed supplements.

Letting the Cat Out of the Bag

So yes, it’s okay to let your veterinarian know what you’re doing…because even if she disapproves, what she will notice is your pet’s shiny coat and vibrant energy! Go ahead, clue her in—if vets hear these dietary success stories enough times, they just might “get it”—and then all their other clients will benefit from what you already know!

Local Pet Owners Look Forward to Expanded Natural Pet Supply Offerings of Natural and Organic Food, Treats, Vitamins, Supplements, Toys, and Accessories

BOULDER, CO, JULY 3, 2008 – Only Natural Pet Store, the largest online retailer of natural pet supplies for dogs and cats, will open the doors to its new retail store on July 11th in Boulder. With 3,500 square feet in the new space, Only Natural Pet Store will be the largest holistic pet products outlet in the Boulder area. Only Natural Pet Store’s offerings will mirror what they carry online, with a full range of products including natural, raw and organic foods, supplements, natural remedies and eco-friendly pet supplies.

The four-year-old business has been growing steadily each year, in keeping with the national trend of pet owners seeking safer and more holistic alternatives for food and supplies for their pets. Only Natural Pet Store also leads the way as a green business, another trend that consumers are increasingly adopting when they choose where to shop for food and products for all members of the household.

Marty Grosjean, President of Only Natural Pet Store reports, “With so many of our customers looking for a local supplier for natural pet products, it was a logical growth step to open our first bricks-and-mortar retail store. Our online customers have already made many suggestions for the location of our second store – clearly there is a growing demand from discriminating pet owners for more locally available holistic pet products.”

Only Natural Pet Store continues to be locally owned and independently operated. Their business commitments include partnership with the Boulder Valley Humane Society and a strong presence in the pet advocacy community, including membership in PETA Business Friends. Only Natural Pet Store will donate a portion of store receipts to the Boulder Valley Humane Society during the Grand Opening celebration, scheduled for July 19th and 20th.

The new store will be located in the Crossroads Commons shopping center, at the northeast corner of 28^th and Pearl, between Panda Express and Bicycle Village.

About Only Natural Pet Store

Only Natural Pet Store is committed to green business practices. The company is powered by 100% wind energy, participates in Eco-Cycle’s Zero Waste program, and uses packaging that aims to reduce waste and conserve valuable resources byreusing boxes and packing materials, and purchasing only fully biodegradable, non-toxic packing peanuts made from cornstarch. Green business practices will continue in the new retail store, including the use of wind energy, biodegradable shopping bags, and an energy-efficient LED sign, among other things.

For more information, visit our web site at Only Natural Pet Store, email us or call us at 888-937-6677.

Our winners for the Only Natural Pet Store photo contest - June 2008

Congratulations to Misha!
Misha is an eight year old Maine Coon from Wyoming. He’s a lover who greets his person when she comes home. His favorite game to play is Lump In the Bed, as pictured here. Misha was a feral cat who was “unadoptable” but his mom spent a lot of time with him and now he’s living the life!

Misha likes Wellness Cat Food and gets In Clover OptaGest with every meal to avoid being a “farty cat”. For a special treat, Misha gets Castor & Pollux Organix Cat Treats.  

& Congratulations to Dirty Harry!
Dirty Harry is a four year old Maine Coon mix from Massachusetts. He loves spending time in his window overlooking the yard, playing and eating. Dirty Harry was adopted by his person just before entering the shelter and brings limitless joy to her life.

Dirty Harry also enjoys Wellness Cat Food and he gets an Only Natural Pet Super Daily with his meals. He also gets Triple Pet Plaque Off to help him have healthy teeth.

Keeping your dog or cat’s teeth and gums healthy will go a long way to preventing not only bad breath, periodontal disease, and an uncomfortable or even painful mouth, but also more serious chronic conditions such as kidney disease, liver disease, heart conditions and joint problems.

The normal adult dog has 42 teeth, while the adult cat has 30. These carnivorous (meat-eating) teeth are very sharp and highly specialized. In the wild, these teeth would perform a variety of tasks such as grooming (the 6 small incisors at the front of each jaw), grasping and killing prey (the 4 long canines, also called “fangs”), and crushing and shearing the meat off the prey’s bones to eat (the pointy molars and premolars along the sides of the jaws, also called “cheek teeth”).

In the wild, the carnivore’s diet and eating habits keep the teeth clean and strong. However, the typical diet of a domestic pet—typically commercial dry or canned food—does not. Therefore, proper dental care throughout your pet’s life is essential to optimal health.

Dental disease is the #1 most common health problem seen by veterinarians. By the age of 3, virtually all dogs and cats have some degree of dental disease, ranging from a mild accumulation of tartar to severe infection and tooth loss. All pets benefit from an annual dental exam, as well as cleaning if needed, but it is also important for you to take care of your pet’s teeth at home.

Within hours after brushing or cleaning, bacteria start to re-colonize the surface of the teeth. They secrete substances to attach themselves more firmly, and to protect themselves from the immune system. The combination of bacteria and their secretions is called plaque. If plaque is not removed, minerals in the saliva turn it into calculus, more commonly called tartar, within 48 hours.

Some of the substances secreted by mouth bacteria cause inflammation of the gums (gingiva), resulting in gingivitis. Untreated, inflammation can progress and even break down tissues in the mouth, leading to periodontal disease. Eventually, infection and erosion cause the teeth to decay, abscess or fracture. Decayed, broken, and abscessed teeth are very painful, and may hinder the animal from taking in enough nourishment. They also deteriorate the pet’s quality of life.

There are other serious health risks associated with tooth decay. Bacteria living in these “slums” can enter the bloodstream and seed infection in critical organs like the heart, liver, and kidneys; as well as causing inflammation in joints and other areas. In my personal experience, many a cranky critter has become happy and playful again after hidden dental problems were corrected.

While diet plays a role in dental disease, there is also a genetic component. Some breeds, such as Abyssinian cats and toy-breed dogs, have a tendency to develop severe gingivitis. Bulldogs, boxers, pugs, and Persian cats often have overcrowded, cavity-prone teeth due to their “smushed” faces. Some pets may need very little dental care, while others might require full cleanings under anesthesia once or even twice a year.

Excellent dental health requires help from your veterinarian as well as a firm commitment to home care from you. If your pet already has dental disease, the first step is to have his teeth cleaned under anesthesia by your veterinarian. While no surgery is risk-free, modern anesthetics, together with appropriate monitoring and supportive care, make this a very low risk procedure, even for older animals (who usually need it the most!).

Steps to prevention of dental and periodontal disease:

1. Healthy Diet

A healthy diet is important for dental health, just as it is for overall well-being. The healthier the animal, the better the immune system, and the less infection will develop. A meat-based diet is essential as meat helps maintain a healthier mouth environment.

However, one persistent myth that is completely false is the notion that “dry food cleans the teeth.” The best that can be said for dry food is that it may produce slightly less tartar than canned food. Pets eating only dry food can and do develop the same dental problems as those who “never touch the stuff.” One study showed that food itself is completely irrelevant; test subjects developed tartar even when fed by stomach tube, even when no food touched the mouth at all! There are a few dry foods that do live up to the claim, but they consist of very large, specially-textured kibbles designed to fracture so that the fragments scrape tartar off the teeth. However, the major ingredients are poor quality (by-product meal, corn gluten meal, corn meal or ground yellow corn, cellulose; Friskies even contains glycerin, a form of sugar – now, how is that good for teeth?!). Plus, these foods suffer from all the usual problems of dry food (extreme processing, high carbohydrates, low moisture). Because of the health risks associated with corn-based dry food (such as obesity, diabetes, allergies, arthritis, FLUTD, and kidney disease), we don’t carry them, or recommend them as a regular diet.

2. Brushing at Home

The best way of removing plaque and preventing dental disease at home is brushing the teeth. Ideally, you should brush your pet’s teeth daily. Brushing removes plaque on the outside of the crown (above-gum portion) of the tooth, and stimulates the gums to keep them healthy. However, plaque can still accumulate below the gum line; so an annual check-up is still an essential part of your pet’s dental health. Even if you don’t see any problems, it is best to have your pet’s teeth professionally cleaned prior to beginning a home-care program, to make sure there are no painful areas in the mouth that might jeopardize your success.

Your veterinarian can show you how to brush your pet’s teeth, but it may still turn into a battle at home, which is the last thing you want! Here are a few tips to get you going:

* Buy a finger brush and toothpaste designed for pets. Do not use a human brush or even a pet brush on a stick; these can severely injure the gums without you knowing it (other than by your pet’s very negative reaction!). A finger brush is a soft plastic cone with bristles on one side that fits over the tip of your finger. It is very safe and can make brushing tolerable or even pleasant for your pet.
* Cats especially love having their faces rubbed at the corners of the mouth (because of the scent glands there), and most dogs tolerate it and even enjoy it. Gently rubbing in that area is a good place to start. Each time you do, run your finger a little farther forward along the lips.
* Gradually extend your rubbing by slipping your finger under the lips and massaging the gums gently. Take this step slowly and back off immediately if your pet objects. You don’t want to make this an unpleasant experience, so let the pet dictate how fast you progress.
* Put a little pet toothpaste (never human toothpaste!) on your finger when you’re rubbing. Most pets love the taste.
* Put the brush on your finger with a little toothpaste. This will be only slightly different from what you’ve been doing and should be tolerated. If not, remove the brush and go back a step. A piece of damp gauze can substitute for the finger brush.

It’s best to brush every day; then if you miss a day, it’s not a crisis. However, if you plan to brush every other day, and then miss a session, you’ve lost several days that cannot be reclaimed, and plaque will have a good head start.

3. Dental Care Products

There are many dental care products marketed for pets. Oral rinses, gels, and water additives will not control plaque by themselves, although they will help with general dental hygiene. The following are my favorite dental products for pets, based on experience and recommendations from veterinary dental experts:

Wysong’s “Denta-Treat” is a cheese-flavored powder that you can sprinkle on the pet’s food or use as toothpaste:

Triple Pet Oral Care Products include specially designed pet toothbrushes and pastes.

ProDen PlaqueOff is another food additive that promotes dental health:

TrueBlue Fast and Fresh Dental Swipes, while not as good as a thorough brushing, can be useful when time is short or when you’re traveling:

Most dog chews, including nylon bones, rawhide bones, hooves, real bones, and other hard chews, tend not to significantly reduce plaque accumulation, and some can actually cause a dog’s teeth to fracture. Broken teeth are a source of infection and pain to the dog, and expense to you when they have to be extracted. If a dog swallows a chunk of any of them, it can cause a life-threatening intestinal blockage. If you have a “ball dog,” don’t let it chew on tennis balls; the tough synthetic “fuzz” rapidly wears teeth down. Thin chews, such as rawhide strips and pig ears, are fine, and may have some benefit by mechanically abrading off the tartar, but be aware they add quite a bit of fat to the diet.

Most treats do not do much for dental health, even if they are labeled “Tartar Control.” The exception to the rule is Feline Greenies, which I can tell you from personal experience can work wonders in just a few weeks.

4. Regular Check Ups

Regular check ups are vitally important, especially for the older animal. At least once a month, you can give your pet a general dental wellness check; be sure to lift the lips enough to see the farthest-back teeth, which are often the source of trouble. If you smell an unpleasant odor, see any redness in the gums, or find a lot of tartar buildup on the teeth, then seek the help of a veterinarian. Supplementing with Vitamin C and CoEnzyme Q10 can help promote the health and healing of gum tissue as well. Every 6-12 months (depending on your pet’s age and history), have your vet do a complete wellness exam and thorough assessment of the mouth.

5. Dental Procedures

If your veterinarian finds tartar build-up or any periodontal disease, consider having a full dental cleaning performed under anesthesia. Your companion will definitely benefit from a healthier and much more comfortable mouth. No matter the age or health of your pet, if there is significant dental disease, it is much preferable to have your vet take care of the problem than to let the problem get worse and cause pain and suffering to your pet.

Great dental care can be the best gift you can give your companion. It requires a commitment of time and effort on your part, but it goes a long, long way toward preventing disease and discomfort; it will help keep your pet healthy and undoubtedly extend her life.

Click here to see all of our dental care products.

“The heat is on,” and with it comes a number of special summertime problems for our pets. Common sense and preventive measures can prevent untold illness and injuries for our pets. Here are our Top 10 tips for a safe and happy summer:

1. Prevent Parasites. Fleas, ticks, and other parasites are a year-round problem in some areas, but in the summer they are just about everywhere. Not only are these pests a nuisance to your dog or cat, but they are carriers of disease and other parasites. Mosquitoes, for instance, can transmit heartworms; fleas can give your pet tapeworms; and the list of tick-borne diseases is a long one. Thwarting parasites requires a broad approach and vigilance on your part, with a little help from effective preventives. Many natural products are available; talk to your vet about what’s needed for your area.

2. Stay Cool in Hot Weather. Pets are susceptible to heatstroke, so be sure your pet always has a shelter from the sun, and plenty of fresh water. If it’s extremely hot and humid in your area, consider a cooling vest for your dog.

3. Let Rover Stay Home. It’s been said before but bears repeating—never leave your dog in a car if the weather is warm, and certainly not if it’s hot. Cracking the windows makes no difference in the temperature gain. It doesn’t take high temperatures for it to be dangerous. A car parked in the shade can reach dangerous temperatures on a hot day, and if it’s in the sun, the temperature can rapidly rise up to 160°F. Experiments showed that even at a mild 72°F, the inside of a car reached 116°F in an hour, plenty hot to kill a dog. One dog died after being locked in a parked car on a sunny, 67°F day, even though the car windows were cracked.

Dogs can’t sweat—they control their body temperature by panting. If the air in the car is near or above the dog’s body temperature (about 100°F), the dog will be unable to cool itself, and its body temperature can quickly rise to fatal levels (over 107°F). Heatstroke symptoms in dogs include: heavy panting, salivation, disorientation, agitation, rapid heart beat, lethargy, vomiting, seizures, coma and death.

If you see a dog left alone in a car under dangerous conditions, note the car’s location, color, model, make, and license plate number and contact local humane authorities or police. If you can make a good guess as to which store the driver might be in, ask the store manager to page them. If the animal shows symptoms of heatstroke, take steps to gradually lower its body temperature immediately.
* Move the animal into the shade or an air-conditioned area.
* Apply ice packs or cold towels to the head, neck, and chest; or immerse her in cool (but not cold) water.
* Allow small amounts of cool water or let the dog lick some ice cubes.
* Get to a veterinarian as soon as possible.

4. Avoid Sunburn. Dogs and cats with white faces or ears may be susceptible to sunburn, even if they only “sun-bathe” indoors. Apply a non-toxic sunscreen to vulnerable areas where the fur is thin and you can see skin.

5. Watch What Goes In Your Pet’s Mouth. Poisonous mushrooms grow in many areas of the country. Patrol your property regularly to remove these fungal hazards. Many plants are also toxic. As a special note, this is the time of year when people are using fertilizers and pesticides in yards and on lawns. Don’t let your dog wander in other yards where chemicals might be used.

6. Take Care with Critters. With dogs accompanying their people walking and hiking in summer, there are increased chances of an encounter with unpleasant or even dangerous wildlife, such as skunks, porcupines, rattlesnakes and other reptiles. Certain large toads have poisons on their skin that can be harmful if your pet even licks at the toad. Toads come out in wet weather and when it’s dark, so be especially careful when letting your dog out at these times.

7. Stay Clear of Sharp Objects. As the grasses and other plants die back, their seed cases can present special hazards. Foxtails and burrs can get caught in the paws or fur and work their way into—or even through—the skin. Check your pet after every outing to make sure they’re free of these nasty items. If you live near water or take your dog on fishing trips, be watchful of fishing hooks and lines that you are using, or that may be left behind in shallow water or on the shore.

8. Travel Safely. As much as your dog may love to ride in the bed of a pickup, or hang his head out the window, allowing either can cause your dog a world of hurt. Dust and gravel in the eyes are the least of it; every year thousands of dogs are injured or killed when they jump or fall from vehicles. Even in an enclosed car, animals can be thrown and injured if you have to brake suddenly. A sturdy harness is the equivalent of a good seatbelt for you!  And of course, if you’re a boater, don’t forget a flotation device for the dog!

9. Carry Identification. Of course, all pets should wear a collar and ID tag year-round. Cats should be outfitted with a breakaway collar for maximum safety. Have your pet microchipped for added “insurance.”

10. Be Prepared. At home or away, carry a first aid kit in case of emergencies. There are special kits for both dogs and cats, so you never have to panic! You might also want to keep flower essences on hand, to keep your pet calm while you give first aid or head for the vet. Several products are available:
Bach Rescue Remedy

SpiritEssence Stress Stopper

Pet Essences Emergency Rescue

Have Fun! Once you’re ready and alert for summer hazards, it’s the best and most fun time of year to get out—or just hang out—with your pet!

After our look last time at vegetarianism in pets, this time we’re going to the other extreme—the high-protein, low-carb, so-called “Catkins” diet (a little wordplay on the low-carb Atkins diet for people). This is a far more prevalent trend in pet diets, and one that I’m glad to see—with a few reservations!

Looking at wild carnivores, it’s clear that what they mostly eat is other animals. Large canids like wolves, and often coyotes, hunt in packs and can dine on big game animals like deer, elk, or moose, while foxes scale it down. All big cats but lions are solitary hunters, and their prey are also proportional in size, although even a domestic cat is quite capable of bringing home an adult rabbit.

The carnivore’s diet has a few things in common across the spectrum of possible prey, which represents a sort of “ideal” we should be shooting for in feeding our pets.

• High protein (50% or more)
• High moisture (60-75%)
• High fat (30-40%)
• Low carbohydrate (less than 10%)

A rat, for instance, has about 55% protein, 38% fat, 9% carbohydrate, and 64% moisture (calculated on a dry matter basis). The “dry matter basis” is the only valid comparison of pet foods, particularly between dry and canned foods. The water is calculated out by subtracting the moisture percentage on the label from 100%, leaving total dry matter. Then you divide the ingredient of interest, for instance protein, by the total dry matter.

This sounds complicated, but if even a math moron like me can do it, you can too! (Hint: your cell phone probably has a built-in calculator!) It’s essential to master this concept in order to accurately compare pet foods. For example, a dry food containing 30% protein and 10% moisture contains 30/90 or 33% protein, while a canned food containing 10% protein and 78% water actually contains 45% protein. So even though the canned food label claims a lot less protein, it really contains much more than dry food.

Many canned foods, especially kitten and cat foods but also many dog foods, already fit our “high-protein” qualification and also contain 10% or less carbohydrates. (You can get a ballpark estimate of carbs by subtracting the other labeled ingredients, including moisture, protein, and fat, from 100%.)

Low Carb Canned Dog Foods

Low Carb Canned Cat Foods

There are quite a few “low-carb” or “grain-free” dry pet foods as well. Remember that “grain free” does not necessarily equal “low carb.” In most grain-free dry foods, cereal grains like corn and rice have been replaced by white potatoes, green peas, carrots, or other starchy vegetables, or by dairy products such as cottage cheese.

Now, there’s no doubt that grains are problematic for dogs and cats; corn-based dry foods in particular are much to blame for the current pet obesity epidemic. Getting away from grain-based foods is a great choice for many pets. It’s been proven many times over that the best and safest way to help a cat lose weight in by putting them on an all-wet, low-carb “Catkins” diet (which could be canned, raw, or homemade). Studies show that dogs lose fat and maintain lean muscle better on the same type of “Catkins” diet, but “Dogkins” just isn’t a very catchy title!

However, you still have to read labels and assess ingredients to make sure you’re getting just what you want in a pet food. Shoot for around 45% protein in a dry cat food, and at least 35% in a dry dog food (on a dry matter basis).

Be aware that high protein dry foods tend to be higher in fat as well, and should not be fed free choice (available 24/7). It is definitely best to feed these foods in timed meals, and make sure you do a gradual transition from the current diet (see previous posts on Switching Foods) to minimize tummy upset. Unlimited consumption of these foods will often result in weight gain, so don’t overfeed! Many of these foods now come in a “reduced calorie” formula, but it’s a lot easier to prevent weight gain in the first place!

High protein dry cat foods are also very dehydrating, and ideally should not be the sole diet. Do feed your cat at least 50% canned food for that important kidney-protecting moisture. While dogs will drink more to make up for the dehydrating effects of these diets, cats will not.

Several manufacturers have also come out with “100% meat” canned diets. Most (but not all) of them are not balanced with minerals and vitamins, and are intended for occasional use only—not as a sole diet for your pet. They are suitable as a basis for a homemade diet to which you add supplements such as Sojos.

Here are just a few examples of the many excellent low-carb products you can find at Only Natural Pet Store:

Wellness CORE Grain-Free Feline Diet

Innova EVO Dry Cat Food

Wellness CORE Original Grain-Free Canine Diet

Innova EVO Red Meat Dry Dog Food

Raw meat-based diets are usually high in protein and moisture, and low in carbs. Many cats and dogs do very well on these diets, but if you want to try raw food, make the switch slowly, and be very cautious if your pet has pre-existing medical conditions affecting the digestive tract and discuss it with your vet first.

When used correctly, low-carb diets work extremely well for weight loss in both dogs and cats. They help maintain healthy skin and coat, vibrant energy, and are far more appropriate for carnivores than mass-market pet foods that are loaded with corn and soy. There’s less yard and litterbox clean-up, too, because more of the food is digested and assimilated. At Only Natural Pet Store, we carry a wide variety of great-quality natural pet foods, but grain-free, low-carb and raw foods are among the most premier of products and will benefit your pet’s health in many ways!

People have many reasons for choosing a vegetarian (no meat) or vegan (no animal products) lifestyle: to lower cholesterol, lose weight, conserve water, save rainforests, stop animal cruelty, and many other personal, health, environmental or ethical reasons. Sometimes, these reasons are so compelling that they want to extend this major life choice to their pets as well.

Dogs are classified as carnivores, but as a practical matter, they are omnivorous and can easily survive without meat, as long as they eat a balanced diet. Dog relatives like foxes and coyotes consume lots of fruit or other vegetation at certain times of the year. While not ideal for every dog, most dogs can be successfully converted to a vegetarian or even vegan diet, and there are several suitable commercial dog foods as well as homemade diets. If you are considering a vegetarian rather than vegan diet for your dog, a lacto-ovo vegetarian diet has more flexibility by allowing dairy products and eggs as protein sources.

Cats, however, are exclusively carnivorous by nature and by physiology. The cat’s body has made many specific adaptations to its expected diet of prey, which consists mostly of protein, fat and moisture. While you may hear stories about successfully vegetarian cats (including one lion), as a veterinarian, I cannot recommend trying to make a cat exclusively vegetarian or vegan. I’ve just seen too many problems from it. However, one company makes a good canned food that can be helpful in reducing the amount of meat you need to feed your cat:

Evanger’s Canine/Feline Vegetarian Canned Food

There are lots of products being marketed as “vegetarian” dog foods. However, many contain corn gluten meal or soybean meal—both of which are already common meat substitutes in mass-market pet foods. Dogs have difficulty digesting soy, which along with soy’s naturally high phytoestrogen content, makes soy problematic as a protein source. Corn gluten meal contains about 60% protein. Today, it is being promoted as a lawn fertilizer and weed killer! When considering a vegetarian dog food, corn and soy are key ingredients to avoid. Fortunately, you don’t have to worry about that when you’re shopping at Only Natural Pet Store—we don’t carry foods containing those ingredients! We carry dry, canned, and even “raw” vegetarian dog foods:

Natural Balance Vegetarian Dog Food Allergy Formula

Evanger’s Canine/Feline Vegetarian Canned Food

Raw Advantage Organic Vegetarian for Dogs

As we’ve talked about before, variety is essential to your pet’s diet, so don’t get stuck on a single food–a mix of homemade and commercial foods may be ideal for both variety and convenience.

Only Natural Pet Store is excited to announce the addition of our new freeze-dried meals and treats! Freeze-Dried Fresh Filets and All Meat Bites are each made from free-range meats that were raised antibiotic and hormone-free. They’re grain-free too so they make a great option for pets with grain allergies.

Give your companion the benefits of a raw food diet without the mess or fuss with Only Natural Pet Freeze Dried Fresh Filets.

• Freeze-dried patties
• Made from free-range, antibiotic- and hormone-free meats
• Same health benefits of a raw meat diet
• Easy-to-serve portions in a resealable bag
• NO grains, preservatives or fillers
• Available in two flavors: Chicken with Organic Veggies and Beef

Treat your pet to the ultimate in pure, natural taste with Only Natural Pet Freeze Dried All Meat Bites.

• Great as a training treat or crumbled food topper
• No fillers or preservatives
• From free-range meat sources
• Grain-free & Gluten-free